Full Murphy Bed Hardware Kit Vertical - Made in USA - DIY Full Size Wall Bed Kit for Guestroom & Small Spaces - Easy to Build Hidden Bed Solution - Perfect for Home Office, Studio Apartments & Vacation Homes

This is a quality product. The pistons, legs and brackets are solid. The hardware functioned properly on the first try. Parts are clearly labeled. The parts list and cut list are precise. Thanks for designing this for beginners.These are the most thorough instructions I've ever used. When combined with the multiple videos on the web page, they provide a clear path to completion. Pay particular attention to the warnings. If the instructions or videos warn against skipping a step or recommend a helper, follow their instruction.Lessons learned construction phase. If you don't have a large work surface, at least 4' X 8', I recommend some simple saw horses and 2 X 4s. It will speed up your work on the bed frame. Double and triple check your cut dimensions. If you're not using a table saw, you must use a quality rip guide for your circular saw to keep the big pieces square. Any rip cut on the cabinet that is off will show up during final assembly. I made a small error and it created a gap on the upper left cabinet. Because many of the edges are visible, a new saw blade for your circular saw, miter saw, or table saw is a good idea. Errors compound and there isn't much tolerance. When drilling holes for the hardware, attempt to keep the walls of the hole perpendicular to the surface for good seating. Always use a backer board when drilling through. Birch plywood splinters and chips without a backer. If you're using Baltic Birch or any 3/4" plywood do not scrimp on edge banding material or the trimmer. Buy a quality product with good adhesion. Sand all your edges before banding. It's much easier to do this big work in a garage away from the room if possible.Lessons learned assembly phase. Clear out the entire room. I attempted to work around a desk and added time to the project. It's very easy to get mixed up on header and footer when gluing the bed frame to the cabinet. Triple check which side gets the 3/4" gap. This was a major error I made that almost derailed a bunch of work. I was able to flip everything (luckily) and keep moving. The instructions recommend drawing a line on the cabinet to outline the 1/2" side gap and the 3/4" gap on the footer. This is the only deviation I made. After messing this up, I brad nailed 1/2" and 3/4" leftover plywood strips to the cabinet. This forced the bed frame to fit properly and will immediately show you if your cut dimensions were wrong. The construction glue they recommend is unforgiving. You will not easily remove any pieces of the bed frame from the cabinet without damaging the product. When installing pistons, you may have to really move the cabinet back and forth to get them to seat. Your partner needs some strength to help do this. The shim step during anchoring is critical! Buy a quality stud finder for the 5/16" anchor bolts. You need to know where center is.I'm an amateur woodworker with decent skills and this project was physically hard. I'm also a bit older. There is quite a bit of lifting, twisting, cutting, moving and assembling that requires physical strength. Part of this was moving parts from a separate garage on the fourth floor to a first floor condo. The construction phase took about 20 hours and the assembly phase 15 hours. Another individual painted and took about 6 hours. Buying lumber etc. was another couple hours. Home Depot delivered so this helped.Definitely not easy but a great value for experienced DIY folks.